however, was a radically forward-thinking, technology-laden beast of a dive watch that Jacques Cousteau adopted into his Aqualung product line as soon as it came out Doxa helped Rolex develop the first helium escape valve, a clever device that lets accumulated helium out of the watch case when ascending from deep, long dives. Without it, professional saturation divers would see their watches pop a crystal during the decompression process.

Doxa was also the first to put the US Navy’s no-decompression (no-deco) scale on the bezel. This now-patented feature gives a diver an instant reference of how long they can dive at any given depth without making a decompression stop. This was critical stuff in the era before the dive computer, and it was boldly apparent to me when diving that the mechanical Doxas are as much data-spewing computers as they are merely watches.

Lastly, Cousteau’s fuss certainly included the fact that Doxa dive watches look so damn cool. After all, Cousteau was an Academy Award-winning filmmaker and one heck of a wardrobe man (red beanies anyone?). I’ve often likened wearing a Doxa to eating oysters: they’re both totally bizarre, even repulsive, propositions, but most who give it a try become hooked for reasons that are hard to explain to the uninitiated. As such, Doxa has a cult following, of which I am a devout member. I’m aim to indoctrinate you.

Earthbound Impressions of the SUB 300: The dial is dinky by today’s standards, but this is the charm, as the flanged case looks especially strange and wonderful on the SUB 300. The beads-of-rice bracelet is a classic, and inarguably on of the most comfortable bracelets ever made. This watch is funky, fun, very retro, and seems to illicit the most comments when I wear it. The domed “double bubble” crystal provides psychedelic distortions, as well as the risk of banging it up a bit.

Underwater Impressions of the SUB 300: SCUBA diving is already totally surreal, and the SUB 300 pulls the underwater experience to Godard levels of Mid-Century weirdness. Cue the quirky synthesizer noises and deep-voiced narrator: “The diver floats inches above the bottom, motionless, watching, waiting.” Exactly like that. Legibility is surprisingly good, and the bezel comes to life with vivid contrast when submerged.

The larger dial makes the 1200T appear larger than the 300, but — inexplicably, because it’s actually larger — the 1200T wears almost identically to the 300. Chalk that up to the great case design. The bracelet, however, exits the lugs without overlapping them, as the 300’s does, and overall the 1200T is physically heavier and looks more substantial on wrist. FWIW, this is the one I own because it hits my sweet-spot for style, comfort and legibility.

As a friend recently put it, “This one is just so damn well balanced.” I get it, as the larger dial pulls back on the funkiness just enough that the watch feels as modern as it does vintage. Legibility is improved, too, and it’s nice to see more of the dial. The flatter sapphire crystal adds a measure of protection.

It’s perfect, really. The added legibility of the wider dial combined with the flatter crystal make refracted off-axis readings clear as day (even at depth), and the bracelet is as comfy as it is secure. I do wish it had quick incremental adjustments for sizing over different wet suits (it crunched down over a 7mm suit when sized for a 3mm), but that’s a small complaint, quickly overcome with a rubber strap (which looks great on the 1200T, especially in orange).